Ask most racers what they changed to fix a launch problem and they'll tell you about bars, springs, or air pressure. Shocks are usually the last thing they touch — and that's backwards. Your shocks control how fast the car transfers weight, how the front end comes up, and how the tire is loaded at the hit. Get them wrong and the best bar setup in the world won't save you.
Here's the part nobody wants to hear: buying a "double adjustable" shock does not mean your shock is right for your car. Double adjustable only means you can adjust compression and rebound separately. It says nothing about how much force the shock makes, the velocity range it works over, or the quality of the valving and parts inside. Those vary enormously from shock to shock — even between shocks that all wear the "double adjustable" label.
How to read a shock dyno graph
A shock dyno plots force (in pounds) against shaft velocity (inches per second). Compression is the top half of the chart, extension (rebound) is the bottom half, and each line is a different click setting from soft to firm. The higher and steeper the lines, the more force that shock makes at a given speed.
Double adjustable doesn't mean equal
Below are real dyno graphs from three different double-adjustable shocks. Look at them side by side and the story jumps out: one shock makes well over 900 lbs of force and keeps working past 12 in/sec with a dense stack of click settings — while another tops out under half that force and only covers about 6 in/sec. Same "double adjustable" label. Completely different tools.
If your car needs the force and range of the bigger shock and you bought something closer to the smaller one, no amount of clicking will get you there — you've simply run out of shock. That's why I look at the actual dyno data, not the marketing on the box.
Matching the shock to your combination
There's no single "best" shock setting, because the right setup depends on what you run and what you run it on. A few of the big variables:
This is exactly why I don't hand out one-size-fits-all settings. I look at your power, your tires, your surface, and your shock's actual capability before recommending anything — my Suspension Tuning Questionnaire gathers all of it.
Compare the data yourself 👇
Watch: Shocks Explained on the KevinWilsonSBC Channel from the Video links below 👇
Here's the part nobody wants to hear: buying a "double adjustable" shock does not mean your shock is right for your car. Double adjustable only means you can adjust compression and rebound separately. It says nothing about how much force the shock makes, the velocity range it works over, or the quality of the valving and parts inside. Those vary enormously from shock to shock — even between shocks that all wear the "double adjustable" label.
How to read a shock dyno graph
A shock dyno plots force (in pounds) against shaft velocity (inches per second). Compression is the top half of the chart, extension (rebound) is the bottom half, and each line is a different click setting from soft to firm. The higher and steeper the lines, the more force that shock makes at a given speed.
Double adjustable doesn't mean equal
Below are real dyno graphs from three different double-adjustable shocks. Look at them side by side and the story jumps out: one shock makes well over 900 lbs of force and keeps working past 12 in/sec with a dense stack of click settings — while another tops out under half that force and only covers about 6 in/sec. Same "double adjustable" label. Completely different tools.
If your car needs the force and range of the bigger shock and you bought something closer to the smaller one, no amount of clicking will get you there — you've simply run out of shock. That's why I look at the actual dyno data, not the marketing on the box.
Matching the shock to your combination
There's no single "best" shock setting, because the right setup depends on what you run and what you run it on. A few of the big variables:
- Power level — more power means more weight transfer to manage and more load on the tire, which takes a shock with the force and range to control it.
- Small-tire slick — less sidewall to absorb the hit, so shock control of weight transfer is critical to plant the tire without shocking it loose.
- Big-tire slick — more sidewall wrap and bite; the shock manages how quickly that big tire loads and how the chassis controls the hit. Rebound valving is an absolutely critical part of a big tire shock!
- Drag radial — the tire wants to come up on top and can be shake-prone, so shock tuning focuses on controlling the rise and loading the tire cleanly. Compression valving is critical on a drag radial to compliment the separation forces on the sidewall.
This is exactly why I don't hand out one-size-fits-all settings. I look at your power, your tires, your surface, and your shock's actual capability before recommending anything — my Suspension Tuning Questionnaire gathers all of it.
Compare the data yourself 👇
- Strange Ultra Dyno Graph
- Penske 7500's 48 Ford (Custom)
- AFCO 38 Series Big Guns (Off the Shelf)
- Full YouTube Shock Playlist
Watch: Shocks Explained on the KevinWilsonSBC Channel from the Video links below 👇
Want the right shock dialed in for your car? I help racers choose, valve, and tune their shocks — including custom Penske drag racing shocks built for your exact combination.